甪直古镇位于苏州市区东南25公里处,游人没有其他热门水乡古镇多,适合周末来随意走走,跨过“桥都”的数座三步二桥(即双桥),看河边白墙黑瓦的建筑,寻找中学语文课本里《多收了三五斗》的故事发生地。
甪直古镇原来因为镇西有“甫里塘”名甫里,后因镇东有直港,通向六处,水流形状酷似“甪”字,改名为“甪直”。古镇与苏州古城同龄,有2500多年历史,年代比同属苏州的周庄、同里古镇久远得多。
如果要买小景点联票,可以从晓市路上的甪直古镇正门进,售票处在那。若不买门票,从哪条路进古镇都可以。因为古镇不大,主街就一条——南市上塘街-南市下塘街,不论从哪里进,都要走到南北走向的主街上来,景点主要在主街两侧。
主街北段的西边是介绍萧宅,宅子建于清光绪年间;东边是具有清代建筑风格的纪念馆,主街中段的西边是保圣寺,寺南有只开放了部分区域就已经显得非常大的清代豪宅沈宅。主街中段的东边是新建的园林江南文化园,里面陈列澄湖遗址出土文物的甪直历史文物馆印证着甪直悠久的历史,甪直水乡妇女服饰博物馆陈列着包头巾、蓝印花布拼接的衣服等独特的甪直妇女服饰。位于镇中心,靠近江南文化园西北角则有古镇三步二桥的代表三元桥和万安桥。主街的南端是根据文章改造的万盛米行(甪直水乡农具博物馆),还原了米行的布局,并展出各种农具。
其中保圣寺是古镇值得一看的景点,始建于梁天监二年(公元503年),距今已有1500多年的历史。寺内古物馆的九尊唐代名家制作的罗汉泥塑十分珍贵,不像其他寺庙的罗汉呆呆地在大殿两侧罗列且没有背景衬托,这里的罗汉在山水雕刻背景前各自做着自己的事,活灵活现。保圣寺西则有晚唐诗人的祠。
想要看传统曲艺,在江南文化园的古戏台上,每天10:00、13:30、15:00有表演。想要坐船游古镇,古镇售票处向东100米,有游船码头,每船150元,坐4人,游一圈约需30分钟。注意游船需一船一付,一付就是150元,没有散客票,你可以找其他游客拼船,再和大家均摊船费。古镇上穿着古装拍照的游客不少,你也可以付费加入古装摄影的行列。
若想品尝古镇美食,可以去主街南段的岔路——沿河的西汇上塘街、西汇下塘街,那里商铺林立,能吃到甫里蹄、甫里鸭、奥灶面等特色美食。9月以后,甪直古镇上有新鲜的八角红菱上市。购买特产可以选择甪直萝卜干,小的园园的那种特别好。
甪直古镇内有住宿,不过由于游完古镇当天就能返回苏州、上海的市区,住宿不是很有必要。如果你想住宿,那么推荐作文博物馆,馆内陈列着读书用的桌子、椅子,还有以前的作文书籍、报纸,墙上到处贴着作文,因为它浓郁的书香气息。
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